Makalu

Makalu is situated approximately 19km to the south east of Mt Everest in the Makalu-Barun National Park bordering Tibet, China. This mountain is the 5th highest mountain in the world and was first climbed in 1955. Only a small number of expeditions today climb this mountain due to its tough technical demands on the summit pyramid. The Makalu-Barun National Park is a remote wilderness with few comfort services available compared to neighbouring Sagarmatha National Park. Hence, this expedition has additional challenges and difficulties; attempting Makalu is a considerable undertaking amongst 8,000m peaks.

The route to the mountain begins with a flight into Tumlingtar (285m), a town at the base of the hills that climb into Makalu-Barun National park. We will then drive to our trailhead in Chichila. The journey from this point is a 9-day route on foot through villages and subtropical forests, descents ascents of the Arun valley, and hikes over a series of passes including Shipton La (4,200m) to finally reach Makalu base camp. Whilst some climbers may elect to fly into base camp or advanced base camp, we recommend the trek in (where possible) in order to get you mountain fit or conditioned on your way in, as additional preparation for this spectacular climb.

We will take a few days to rest and acclimatise at base camp before starting our rotation rounds on the mountain. Using the route of the first ascent, we will ascend via the north-west ridge. From Makalu base camp, we will place 4-5 camps on the mountain beginning with an advanced base camp (5,700m) located just across the glacier moraine. As Camp 3 and Camp4 are generally close together, we will make a call during the expedition, in discussion with team members as to whether we set a Camp 4.

The route from advance base camp is long and windy, sometimes on rock, sometimes snow. Between Camp 1 to Camp 3 we climb between seracs and crevasses with sections of steep mixed climbing. Camp 3 is a particularly long day and many climbers under-estimate this part of the climb – so leave advanced base camp early. Camp 4 to the summit is a significant day that involves negotiating a steep ice band, crevasses, a 300m gully (the French couloir) and an exposed summit ridge. There is a definite false summit as you come out of the French couloir, you climb up to the false summit and then traverse across and slightly up to the true summit. When you stand at the summit and look at the view, you will wonder why you did not attempt this climb sooner in order to see views that only a small, select group of people get to see. To see Mt Everest and Lhotse from Makalu is one of the most special memories you will take home with you.