Lhotse

Lhotse offers a nice mixed technical climb, especially near the summit, plus very rare view across to Mt Everest, Makalu and beyond.

Trip Overview

Lhotse sits quietly alongside Mt Everest. They are connected by the South Col. Lhotse was previously thought by local people to be a minor peak of Everest, hence its name, Lhotse, meaning ‘South Peak’. However, Lhotse is by no means a lesser peak or challenge, and some consider it more a climber’s mountain than Mt Everest – but it can really depend on the day or the season as to what you can expect. This expedition will summit the main peak of Lhotse, the 4th highest mountain in the world.

The climb initially shares the same route as Everest to Camp 3, passing through the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and crossing the Yellow Band. Above the Yellow Band, the route ventures to the right towards rock shelves to Camp 4, whilst climbers of Mt Everest will climb to the left and across the Geneva Spur to their Camp 4 on Mt Everest. As you sit at Camp 4 on Lhotse you experience wonderful views looking down the Western Cwm, and have a great vantage point for watching other climbers heading up their respective mountains, either Lhotse or Mt Everest.

The final summit route on Lhotse climbs steeply through the upper Lhotse Face to a couloir that provides fast, direct access to the summit. Depending on conditions, you will have a nice climb to the summit on snow, or at times it can be rock and ice. If bare rock, be sure to monitor for rock fall. From the top of the couloir, it’s a short but exposed ridge climb to the summit. Though, you won’t stand directly on the summit of this mountain due to it being so tiny but a metre or two below, though potentially your head will likely be the tallest point.

Why join with Expedition Base?

When it comes to mountaineering expeditions, for any peak, we are known for our sound strategy, strong leadership and well-resourced approach to our expeditions. The mountains are fun and full of wonderful experiences. But, we also recognise that they also carry with them risk. For that reason, we approach the mountains on the basis of ‘safety first’. With safety as our first focus, fun and amazing experiences will follow. Few companies offer logistics as good as ours for a reasonable price point. Our goal is to put our clients in the best position for success, whatever their personal goal in the mountains may be. Our guides are some of the best in the business, with experience on a wide range of peaks from small, right up to the 8,000m peaks, many with multiple summits on the 8,000m peaks. We see strong leadership as critical to success on the world’s highest peaks and we can offer that leadership here at Expedition Base – and not all companies can. We offer the level of services historically offered by leading western companies, but without costly western overheads. In the mountains, your safety is our prime importance. We know our clients value our commitment to them and with that flows a great experience.

    Trip Highlights

    • 4th highest mountain in the world
    • Views across to Mt Everest, Makalu and beyond
    • Follow the normal route of Mt Everest nearly to Camp 4, before diverging

    Trip Facts

    • Price starts from

      USD 24,000

    • Advanced Mountaineering

      Difficulty

      Advanced Mountaineering

    • Duration

      53 Days, 52 Nights

    • Activity

      Expedition, 8,000m+

    • Max. Altitude

      8,516m

    • Destination

      Nepal

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    Trip Map

    Gallery

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    Difficulty level

    Advanced Mountaineering

    Advanced Mountaineering

    This trip is for experienced mountaineers. The trip will involve challenging trekking, advanced mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 8,848m, depending on the mountain. You can expect to experience some serious heights, some ledges, and exposure to steep terrain. For this trip, you want to have an advanced level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own- body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 6-12 months before this trip, building on your already sound fitness. Weight training is also strongly recommended. Training on uneven terrain is strongly recommended. By registering for this trip, you likely already know what you need to do but wherever we can help, we will.

    Trip Notes

    View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.

    View Trip Notes

    Detailed Itinerary

    Day 1

    Arrive Kathmandu

    Day 2-3

    In Kathmandu (Personal and team preparation, briefings)

    Day 4

    Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding

    Day 5-6

    April Trek to Namche and Acclimatise

    Day 7-8

    Trek to Dingboche via Tengboche Monastery

    Day 9

    Rest and acclimatise in Dingboche

    Day 10-11

    Trek to Lobuche, acclimatise in Lobuche

    Day 12

    Trek to Everest Base Camp

    Day 13-16

    Rest, acclimatize and puja at EBC

    Day 17-19

    First rotation through Khumbu Icefall

    Day 20-24

    Rotation to C1, touch C2 and return to EBC

    Day 25-27

    Rest and recover

    Day 28-34

    Rotation up to C3 and return to EBC

    Day 34-37

    Walk down to Dingboche or Debuche for Rest

    Day 38-46

    Preparation for Summit and Summit Lhotse

    Day 47-50

    Pack up EBC and trek to Lukla

    Day 51

    Fly to Kathmandu

    Day 52

    In Kathmandu

    Day 53

    Depart Kathmandu

    Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.

    Package Details

    Inclusions

    4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu eg. Hotel Radisson or Hotel Tibet, Lazimpat (or similar), airport transfers to hotel (and back to airport), welcome team dinner, all necessary climbing and trekking permits, team transport in Kathmandu, experienced expedition leader, government liaison officer fee, fixed wing flights to and from Lukla, all meals and accommodation during trek to base camp and return, porter service to carry up to 60kg personal gear to base camp, fully serviced powered base
camp (including personal tent, heated dining tent and communication tent, full satellite communication system (pay per use), all meals/snacks and hot showers), 2-way radio system for guides to communicate between camps, team of climbing guides to set up and stock higher camps, climbing guides to assist to carry personal gear to higher camps, all meals and tents above base camp, 1:2 guide: client ratio on summit day, high O2 allowance with quality delivery system, high altitude wilderness first aid kit, transport of group equipment to base camp, all group climbing equipment supplied, all other charges for route setting and two complimentary expedition duffels for client to use and keep.

    Exclusions

    International flights to and from Kathmandu, tips and summit bonuses for climbing guides, tourist visa fees, meals in Kathmandu (allow USD $10-15 per meal), aerated and alcoholic beverages, personal items (e.g. phone calls, laundry, internet), personal transport in and around Kathmandu, travel insurance (including early departure and mountain search/rescue) and personal climbing gear, helicopter flights (at client option).

    Meet Our Expert Team

    No matter what the enquiry, our commitment to exceptional service ensures that a helpful and knowledgeable staff member is on hand to assist you whenever the need arises.

    Lakpa Sherpa

    Managing Director

    Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa

    Director

    Chris Jensen Burke

    Co-ordinator

    Chhiring Sherpa

    UIAGM / IFMGA Guide

    Jangbu Sherpa

    UIAGM / IFMGA Guide

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