Lhotse sits quietly alongside Mt Everest. They are connected by the South Col. Lhotse was previously thought by local people to be a minor peak of Everest, hence its name, Lhotse, meaning ‘South Peak’. However, Lhotse is by no means a lesser peak or challenge, and some consider it more a climber’s mountain than Mt Everest – but it can really depend on the day or the season as to what you can expect. This expedition will summit the main peak of Lhotse, the 4th highest mountain in the world.
The climb initially shares the same route as Everest to Camp 3, passing through the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and crossing the Yellow Band. Above the Yellow Band, the route ventures to the right towards rock shelves to Camp 4, whilst climbers of Mt Everest will climb to the left and across the Geneva Spur to their Camp 4 on Mt Everest. As you sit at Camp 4 on Lhotse you experience wonderful views looking down the Western Cwm, and have a great vantage point for watching other climbers heading up their respective mountains, either Lhotse or Mt Everest.
The final summit route on Lhotse climbs steeply through the upper Lhotse Face to a couloir that provides fast, direct access to the summit. Depending on conditions, you will have a nice climb to the summit on snow, or at times it can be rock and ice. If bare rock, be sure to monitor for rock fall. From the top of the couloir, it’s a short but exposed ridge climb to the summit. Though, you won’t stand directly on the summit of this mountain due to it being so tiny but a metre or two below, though potentially your head will likely be the tallest point.
This trip is for experienced mountaineers. The trip will involve challenging trekking, advanced mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 8,848m, depending on the mountain. You can expect to experience some serious heights, some ledges, and exposure to steep terrain. For this trip, you want to have an advanced level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own- body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 6-12 months before this trip, building on your already sound fitness. Weight training is also strongly recommended. Training on uneven terrain is strongly recommended. By registering for this trip, you likely already know what you need to do but wherever we can help, we will.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2-3In Kathmandu (Personal and team preparation, briefings)
Day 4Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 5-6April Trek to Namche and Acclimatise
Day 7-8Trek to Dingboche via Tengboche Monastery
Day 9Rest and acclimatise in Dingboche
Day 10-11Trek to Lobuche, acclimatise in Lobuche
Day 12Trek to Everest Base Camp
Day 13-16Rest, acclimatize and puja at EBC
Day 17-19First rotation through Khumbu Icefall
Day 20-24Rotation to C1, touch C2 and return to EBC
Day 25-27Rest and recover
Day 28-34Rotation up to C3 and return to EBC
Day 34-37Walk down to Dingboche or Debuche for Rest
Day 38-46Preparation for Summit and Summit Lhotse
Day 47-50Pack up EBC and trek to Lukla
Day 51Fly to Kathmandu
Day 52In Kathmandu
Day 53Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.