In far eastern Nepal, away from the crowds surrounding Mt Everest, lies an understated Himalayan giant: Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest mountain in the world and 2nd highest in Nepal. Sitting on the border between Nepal and India (Sikkim), Kanchenjunga is an awe inspiring challenging mountain with five summit peaks, hence the meaning of Kanchenjunga ‘the five treasures of the great snows’. Four of the five summits are above 8,000m: main (8,586m), west (8,505m), central (8,482m) and south (8,494m).
In April 2018, Expedition Base plans to lead an expedition on Kanchenjunga to the main summit from the Southwest face. The trek to base camp on the Yalung glacier is remote and largely unsupported by teahouses, therefore a good deal of the route is camping. From base camp, we will rotate through 4 camps up to the summit. The route is technical including a steep ice wall climb above 8,000m. This expedition is recommended for climbers with prior experience of 8000m mountains, with good endurance and a desire to join one of the most prepared, strategic thinking, success and safety minded teams on the mountain.
Book this trip as a private departure - for any group, big or small.
This trip is for experienced mountaineers. The trip will involve challenging trekking, advanced mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 8,848m, depending on the mountain. You can expect to experience some serious heights, some ledges, and exposure to steep terrain. For this trip, you want to have an advanced level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own- body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 6-12 months before this trip, building on your already sound fitness. Weight training is also strongly recommended. Training on uneven terrain is strongly recommended. By registering for this trip, you likely already know what you need to do but wherever we can help, we will.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 2In Kathmandu (Personal and team preparation, briefings)
Day 3Fly Bhadrapur
Day 4Drive to Tharpu
Day 5-6Trek to Yamphudin
Day 7-13Trek to Kanchenjunga Base Camp
Day 14-15Set up base camp
Day 16-50Climb Kanchenjunga
Day 51-52Pack up base camp
Day 53-58Return trek/drive/flight to Kathmandu
Day 59-60In Kathmandu
Day 61Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.
4 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu eg. Hotel Radisson or Hotel Tibet, Lazimpat (or similar), airport transfers to hotel (and back to airport), welcome team dinner, all necessary climbing and trekking permits, team transport in Kathmandu, experienced expedition leader, government liaison officer fee, fixed wing flights to and from Bhadrapur, all meals and accommodation during trek to base camp and return, porter service to carry up to 60kg personal gear to base camp, fully serviced powered base camp (including personal tent, heated dining tent and communication tent, full satellite communication system (pay per use), all meals/snacks and hot showers), 2-way radio system for guides to communicate between camps, team of climbing guides to set up and stock higher camps, climbing guides to assist to carry personal gear to higher camps, all meals and tents above base camp, minimum 1:2 guide: client ratio on summit day, O2 allowance with quality delivery system, high altitude wilderness first aid kit, transport of group equipment to base camp, all group climbing equipment supplied, all other charges for route setting and two complimentary expedition duffels for client to use and keep.
International flights to and from Kathmandu, tips and summit bonuses for climbing guides, tourist visa fees, meals in Kathmandu (allow USD $10-15 per meal), aerated and alcoholic beverages, personal items (e.g. phone calls, laundry, internet), personal transport in and around Kathmandu, travel insurance (including early departure and mountain search/rescue) and personal climbing gear, helicopter flights (at client option).