Dhaulagiri is the 7th highest mountain in the world and is located in western Nepal, not far from Annapurna (the world’s 10th highest mountain).
Our route to the summit will be via the ‘normal’ north east route, which was first climbed in 1960. The climbing route is mostly of easy to moderate gradient. As we leave base camp, we cross a glacier to reach our crampon point, up a rock and ice pitch to a traverse. After a short traverse we find ourselves in a wide open col and we cross it and climb up to about 5,800m to set our Camp 1. Our Camp 2 is around 600m higher at 6,400m, after a gradual climb. The route to Camp 3 is a little steeper, with more rock generally, as we approach the north west ridge. We will climb up and beyond the ridge to reach our Camp 3 at about 7,050m.
Our summit day will involve an early start and we can expect to be climbing up for around 8 hours, subject to the conditions we experience. Where required, ropes will be fixed to the mountain, and you will follow the route set by climbing guides on the mountain.
After reaching the summit, we will clean the camps on the way down and take a well earned rest at our base camp. We will then pack up over the next day or so before we arrange our helicopter exit back to Pokhara and then onward to Kathmandu.
This trip is for experienced mountaineers. The trip will involve challenging trekking, advanced mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 8,848m, depending on the mountain. You can expect to experience some serious heights, some ledges, and exposure to steep terrain. For this trip, you want to have an advanced level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own- body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 6-12 months before this trip, building on your already sound fitness. Weight training is also strongly recommended. Training on uneven terrain is strongly recommended. By registering for this trip, you likely already know what you need to do but wherever we can help, we will.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 2In Kathmandu (Personal and team preparation, briefings)
Day 3Fly to Pokhara and drive to Dabang
Day 4-10Trek to base camp via Sibang, Jugapani and Italian camp
Day 11-32Climbing period, pack up base camp
Day 33Helicopter to Pokhara, Kathmandu
Day 34In Kathmandu
Day 35Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.