Pumori’s South West Ridge route offers a nice technical challenge for experienced climbers, much like the North Ridge route on Ama Dablam.
2022 - CONTACT US FOR OUR REVISED ITINERARY FOR OUR 2022 EXPEDITION TO PUMORI, NOW WITH PRE-ACCLIMATISATION CLIMB ON LOBUCHE EAST!
This technical route comprises some rock scrambling, snow and ice, with some steep terrain and high levels of exposure. Whilst more technical than the standard route on Pumori, it is considered to be more ‘safe’ from the risks of avalanche, for which the normal route on Pumori is well known.
This trip is also a great pre-Everest climb, both in timing, checking ‘where you are at’ with your preparation to climb the world’s highest mountain, plus being an impressive climb in its own right.
We won’t be climbing the route directly from Kala Patar, but via the couloir to the right of Kala Patar and west of the normal route. Once the ridge is reached, we will follow the ridge directly to the summit.
Approximate camp altitudes on this route:
Camp 1 – 6,000m
Camp 2 – 6,500m
Camp 3 – 6,750m
Book this trip as a private departure - for any group, big or small.
This trip will build on the mountaineering skills that you already have with our guides working together with you to advance those skills. The trip will involve challenging trekking, intermediate mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 7,500m, depending on the trip. You can expect to experience some serious heights, maybe some ledges, and exposure to steeper terrain. For this trip, you want to have a sound level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own-body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 4-6 months before this trip. Weight training is also recommended. Training on uneven terrain is recommended.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2In Kathmandu
Day 3Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m), trek to Monjo (2,840m) ~5 hrs
Day 4Trek Monjo (2,840m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) ~5 hrs
Day 5Acclimatisation day in Namche ~ 5 hrs
Day 6Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,800m)
Day 7Tengboche to Dingboche (4,100m)
Day 8In Dingboche, acclimatisation walk ~5 hr
Day 9Dingboche to Lobuche (4,900m)
Day 10Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5,140m), and onward to Pumori Base Camp ~ 6 hrs
Day 11-12Rest Day at Pumori Base Camp (5,400m)
Day 13-26Climbing period
Day 27Pumori Base Camp to Tengboche ~6-7 hrs
Day 28Tengboche to Namche Bazaar ~4-5 hrs
Day 29Namche Bazaar to Lukla ~6-7 hrs
Day 30Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 31In Kathmandu
Day 32Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.
Internal fixed wing flights, climbing permit fees, 4 nights in Kathmandu hotel equivalent to Hotel Tibet or Radisson (Lazimpat or similar) based on twin share accommodation, experienced climbing guides at high guide : client ratio, team transport in Nepal, extensive high altitude wilderness first aid kit, fully serviced base camp with quality personal tent, dining, kitchen and shower tents, serviced higher camps, all meals outside Kathmandu plus breakfast in Kathmandu, porters to carry personal/group equipment to on treks and up to base camps, climbing Sherpas to set up camps and carry group food, and expedition duffel.
The quote price for this trip allows for a 1:2 sherpa:client ratio.
(For those climbers who would like a 1:1 ratio, please add $US1,200 per person – advance notice required so that guide is available.)