Ama Dablam - South West Ridge

The 'normal' route on this magical mountain!

Trip Overview

Towering over Tengboche monastery and the Sherpa village of Pangboche at a height of 6,856m, Ama Dablam is one of the most iconic mountains in Nepal. The much-coveted South West ridge is one of the more popular routes in the Himalayas today, with climbers often using it as preparation for an expedition to one of the greater 8,000m peaks (of course the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective!). Comprising of steep ice and rock with exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines along the majority of the route.

You’ll need a good head for heights. Our summit push will begin early in the morning from our last camp and hopefully you’ll top out in great weather, as the summit affords spectacular 360 degree views of numerous Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.

Lakpa Sherpa of Expedition Base has climbed this famed mountain more than any other person in the world - a record 21 times. He led or organised the route setting on this mountain for 7 straight years in a row, before more regulated arrangements for route setting were put in place (in more recent years). As it is for many climber, this mountain is also one of Lakpa's favourite mountains for its beauty, the views, the technical challenge and for the mixed terrain offered in a single expedition. Ama Dablam base camp is one of the best base camps in the Khumbu with its flat often grassy terrain, as tents sit nestled in the arms of the mountain. We love this mountain and the experience it has to offer. We are confident you will too.

Why join with Expedition Base?

When it comes to mountaineering expeditions, for any peak, we are known for our sound strategy, strong leadership and well-resourced approach to our expeditions. The mountains are fun and full of wonderful experiences. But, we also recognise that they also carry with them risk. For that reason, we approach the mountains on the basis of ‘safety first’. With safety as our first focus, fun and amazing experiences will follow. Few companies offer logistics as good as ours for a reasonable price point. Our goal is to put our clients in the best position for success, whatever their personal goal in the mountains may be. Our guides are some of the best in the business, with experience on a wide range of peaks from small, right up to the 8,000m peaks, many with multiple summits on the 8,000m peaks. We see strong leadership as critical to success on the world’s highest peaks and we can offer that leadership here at Expedition Base – and not all companies can. We offer the level of services historically offered by leading western companies, but without costly western overheads. In the mountains, your safety is our prime importance. We know our clients value our commitment to them and with that flows a great experience.

Trip Facts

  • Price starts from

    USD 6,850

  • Intermediate Mountaineering

    Difficulty

    Intermediate Mountaineering

  • Duration

    26 Days, 25 Nights

  • Activity

    Expedition, 6000m+

  • Max. Altitude

    6856m

  • Destination

    Nepal

  • Trip Start

    Kathmandu

  • Trip End

    Kathmandu

FIXED DEPARTURES

Trip Start Trip End Group Size Availability INQUIRY
Oct 26, 2019 Nov 20, 2019 - Open Book Now

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Trip Map

Difficulty level

Intermediate Mountaineering

Intermediate Mountaineering

This trip will build on the mountaineering skills that you already have with our guides working together with you to advance those skills. The trip will involve challenging trekking, intermediate mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 7,500m, depending on the trip. You can expect to experience some serious heights, maybe some ledges, and exposure to steeper terrain. For this trip, you want to have a sound level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own-body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 4-6 months before this trip. Weight training is also recommended. Training on uneven terrain is recommended.

Trip Notes

View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.

View Trip Notes

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1

Arrive Kathmandu

Day 2

In Kathmandu

Day 3

Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m), trek to Monjo (2,840m) ~5 hrs

Day 4

Trek Monjo (2,840m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) ~5 hrs

Day 5

Acclimatisation day in Namche ~ 5 hrs

Day 6

Trek Namche (3,440m) to Deboche (3,710m) ~ 5 hrs

Day 7

Trek Deboche (3,710m) to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m) ~4.5 hrs

Day 8

Rest day in Ama Dablam BC

Day 9

Training day at BC

Day 10

Day trip BC to 5,800m

Day 11

Rest and gear preparation

Day 12

Climb BC (4,600m) to Camp 1 (5,900m)

Day 13

Climb Camp 1 (5,900m) to Camp 2 (6,100m), return to BC (4,600m)

Day 14-15

Rest, contingency day and final Summit preparation

Day 16

Climb base camp (4,600m) to Camp 1 (5,900m)

Day 17

Climb Camp 1 (5,900m) to Camp 2 (6,100m)

Day 18

Climb Camp 2 (6,100m) to Camp 3 (6,400m)

Day 19

Climb Camp 3 (6,400m) to Summit (6,856m), return to Camp 2 (6,100m)

Day 20

Climb Camp 2 (6,100m) to base camp (4,600m)

Day 21

Rest and pack up base camp

Day 22

Trek base camp (4,600m) to Namche (3,440m) ~6 hr

Day 23

Trek Namche (3,440m) to Lukla (2,840m) ~6hr

Day 24

Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 25

In Kathmandu

Day 26

Depart Kathmandu

Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.

Package Details

Inclusions

Internal fixed wing flights, climbing permit fees, 4 nights in Kathmandu hotel equivalent to Hotel Tibet or Radisson (Lazimpat or similar), experienced climbing guides, team transport in Nepal, extensive high altitude wilderness first aid kit, fully serviced base camp with quality personal tent, dining, kitchen and shower tents, serviced higher camps, all meals outside Kathmandu plus breakfast in Kathmandu, porters to carry personal/group equipment on treks and up to base camps, climbing Sherpas to set up camps and carry group food; plus receive an expedition duffel. (All accommodation is on a twin share basis - single share can be arranged on request at an additional cost).

Exclusions

International flights to and from Kathmandu, lunch and dinners in Kathmandu (allow USD $10-15 per meal), aerated and alcoholic beverages, personal items (e.g. phone calls, internet, laundry), tips and Ama Dablam summit bonus, travel insurance (incl. early departure, mountain rescue) and personal trekking/climbing gear.

Meet Our Expert Team

No matter what the enquiry, our commitment to exceptional service ensures that a helpful and knowledgeable staff member is on hand to assist you whenever the need arises.

Lakpa Sherpa

Managing Director

Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa

Director

Chris Jensen Burke

Co-ordinator

Chhiring Sherpa

UIAGM / IFMGA Guide

Jangbu Sherpa

UIAGM / IFMGA Guide

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