Towering over Tengboche monastery and the Sherpa village of Pangboche at a height of 6,856m, Ama Dablam is one of the most iconic mountains in Nepal. The much-coveted South West ridge is one of the more popular routes in the Himalayas today, with climbers often using it as preparation for an expedition to one of the greater 8,000m peaks (of course the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective!). Comprising of steep ice and rock with exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines along the majority of the route.
You’ll need a good head for heights. Our summit push will begin early in the morning from our last camp and hopefully you’ll top out in great weather, as the summit affords spectacular 360 degree views of numerous Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
This trip will build on the mountaineering skills that you already have with our guides working together with you to advance those skills. The trip will involve challenging trekking, intermediate mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 7,500m, depending on the trip. You can expect to experience some serious heights, maybe some ledges, and exposure to steeper terrain. For this trip, you want to have a sound level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own-body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 4-6 months before this trip. Weight training is also recommended. Training on uneven terrain is recommended.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2In Kathmandu
Day 3Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m), trek to Monjo (2,840m) ~5 hrs
Day 4Trek Monjo (2,840m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) ~5 hrs
Day 5Acclimatisation day in Namche ~ 5 hrs
Day 6Trek Namche (3,440m) to Deboche (3,710m) ~ 5 hrs
Day 7Trek Deboche (3,710m) to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,600m) ~4.5 hrs
Day 8Rest day in Ama Dablam BC
Day 9Training day at BC
Day 10Day trip BC to 5,800m
Day 11Rest and gear preparation
Day 12Climb BC (4,600m) to Camp 1 (5,900m)
Day 13Climb Camp 1 (5,900m) to Camp 2 (6,100m), return to BC (4,600m)
Day 14-15Rest, contingency day and final Summit preparation
Day 16Climb base camp (4,600m) to Camp 1 (5,900m)
Day 17Climb Camp 1 (5,900m) to Camp 2 (6,100m)
Day 18Climb Camp 2 (6,100m) to Camp 3 (6,400m)
Day 19Climb Camp 3 (6,400m) to Summit (6,856m), return to Camp 2 (6,100m)
Day 20Climb Camp 2 (6,100m) to base camp (4,600m)
Day 21Rest and pack up base camp
Day 22Trek base camp (4,600m) to Namche (3,440m) ~6 hr
Day 23Trek Namche (3,440m) to Lukla (2,840m) ~6hr
Day 24Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 25In Kathmandu
Day 26Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.