If you join this expedition to Ama Dablam’s north ridge, you will be heading off on one of the most spectacular climbs available in Nepal.
Ama Dablam is one of the most popular peaks for climbers in Nepal. Very few companies have the skill and expertise within their guiding ranks to offer this trip. Expedition Base is one of those companies.
Lakpa Sherpa has guided on Ama Dablam more times (most likely) than most guides and he holds the world record for the number of Ama Dablam summits – 22 times, as at November 2018. He and his team of guides fixed the normal route of this peak for 7 years, before moving on to make available opportunities for clients on other mountains.
With an expedition scheduled to start in October 2019, Lakpa and Expedition Base are offering clients and prospective clients the rare opportunity to climb the north ridge of this beautiful mountain.
Towering over Tengboche monastery and the Sherpa village of Pangboche at a height of 6,856m, Ama Dablam is one of the most iconic mountains in Nepal.
Many climbers often using this peak as preparation for an expedition to one of the 8,000m peaks (and, of course, the mountain is by its own right a fantastic objective!).
Comprising of steep ice and rock with exposed ridges, the technical nature of the route is somewhat lessened by the presence of fixed lines along the majority of the route.
You’ll need a good head for heights. Our summit push will begin early in the morning from our last camp and hopefully you’ll top out in great weather, as the summit affords spectacular 360 degree views of numerous Himalayan giants, including Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
Why is this route more expensive than the normal route on Ama Dablam?
This trip is longer than the period that is needed to climb the normal route. This route is attempted by fewer climbers therefore we need to field a strong and larger guiding team to help prepare the route on the mountain. Whilst you might find several hundred people on the normal route, this northern route may only be attempted by us, and maybe one or two other teams. Our goal is to resource ourselves so that we can climb this route independent of any other climbers, and that we provide our team with a good amount of time to acclimatise well for this nice, technical climb.
This trip will build on the mountaineering skills that you already have with our guides working together with you to advance those skills. The trip will involve challenging trekking, intermediate mountaineering, moving on snow, rock and ice, with technical tools, at reasonably high altitudes up to around 7,500m, depending on the trip. You can expect to experience some serious heights, maybe some ledges, and exposure to steeper terrain. For this trip, you want to have a sound level of fitness, with cardiovascular exercise and own-body weight type exercises (or similar) at least 4-5 times per week for the period of around 4-6 months before this trip. Weight training is also recommended. Training on uneven terrain is recommended.
View the printable version of the short itinerary and detailed trip notes here.
Day 1Arrive Kathmandu
Day 2In Kathmandu
Day 3Fly Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m), trek to Monjo (2,840m) ~5 hrs
Day 4Trek Monjo (2,840m) to Namche Bazaar (3,440m) ~5 hrs
Day 5Acclimatisation day in Namche ~5 hrs
Day 6Trek Namche (3,440m) to Tengboche (3,800m) ~5 hrs
Day 7Trek to Dingboche (4,410m) ~4 hrs
Day 8Acclimatisation in Dingboche ~5 hrs
Day 9Trek Dingboche (4,410m) to Lobuche (4,910m) ~5 hr
Day 10Trek Lobuche (4,910m) to Gorak Shep (5,100m) ~4 hrs
Day 11Trek Kala Patar (5,500m), down to Gorak Shep, and to Lobuche Base Camp ~7-8 hrs
Day 12Rest day at Lobuche East Base Camp
Day 13-15Climb Lobuche East, descend to Dingboche (4,410m) ~8-9 hrs
Day 16Dingboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp (north side) (4,700m) ~2 hr
Day 17-29Climbing period
Day 30Rest and pack up base camp
Day 31Trek Ama Dablam base camp (4,600m) to Namche (3,440m) ~7-8 hr
Day 32Trek Namche (3,440m) to Lukla (2,840m) ~6hr
Day 33Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 34In Kathmandu
Day 35Depart Kathmandu
Note: Daily walking hours include a lunch break, and regular rest breaks.